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Monday, 13 July 2026

 This is a copy of a post I made to Facebook.

YASHICA FX-A

Now here's something you may not have seen before, or ever see again, it's the rarest of Yashica SLRs, the FX-A.

There's not much information around about the FX-A. It was introduced at Photokina in 1982 but the plug was pulled on the project soon after and there was only, allegedly, around 1000 made, most of which, allegedly, were bought by the US Government. I'm not sure any of this can be verified but it's a fact that few were made and they rarely show up for sale.

The FX-A has built-in focus-assist so is a predecessor of the later Contax RX. It is not auto-focus and I, personally, can't see how it could ever have been an auto-focus camera as there are no couplings to the lens that would allow the lens to be controlled by the body. I think this was only ever going to be a focus-assist system, just like the RX. At the same time, Yashica were developing a AF version of the Contax 137 which may have been a full auto-focus system - we'll never know.

The FX-A has been described as similar to the FX-D. In fact it has very little similarity to the FX-D and it would be misleading to say it is. It is a generation later than the FX-D and the style and build are much more similar to the FX-70 and the FX-103. Both of these cameras came later so it seems some of the development of the FX-A did not go unused and appeared in these later cameras. The shutter, particularly, is different than the FX-D or any earlier cameras but the same shutter was carried over into the FX-70 and FX-103. Other parts and assemblies also got reused in the later cameras.

If I am being perfectly honest, the FX-A, along with the FX-70 and FX-103, are not built as well as the FX-D. Maybe this was the result of cost cutting measures, perhaps due to Yashica's financial woes of the time prior to the Kyocera take-over.

It seems the camera was intended to have a number of accessories including a winder and a data (or date) back. There are four winder contacts on the base suggesting the winder would be based on the Contax 159 winder which also has four contacts. But one of the contacts on the FX-A is not connected so it would have had less functionality. The Contax 139 winder fits and works as intended. The later FX-103 also had four contacts and a winder which looks identical to the Contax 139 winder so this was probably what was intended for the FX-A. The 139 winder only needs two contacts though so I don't know why they included more.

The camera has a data back LED to trigger the data back each time the shutter is released. So a data back was planned. This eventually appeared with the FX-103.

Other functions include a flash ready contact in the hot shoe. This works with the Contax TLA20 but I've not checked it with any other flash models. There is no TTL flash. This was introduced with the FX-103.

There is also a self timer switch on the front of the camera which also provides a momentary exposure lock.

There is one thing about the camera I have failed to understand. At the top of the lens mount is a switch which is activated by the lens maximum aperture tab. Normally this tab tells the body the maximum aperture of the lens which it uses for displaying the aperture in use. But the FX-A doesn't display the aperture and, what's more, this is just a switch, not a variable resistance or a digital encoder as is found on other bodies to indicate the aperture. So what this switch was intended for I don't know. It just seems to tell the body that a lens has been attached and no more.

My example of the FX-A appeared recently on ebay. I was lucky. It had only just been put on when I saw it. The buy-it-now button has never been pressed so fast. There was no information other than it was untested so I expected it not to work. But on inspection it powered-up and the lights came on, including the focus indicators, but the shutter wouldn't fire. I also noted the mirror had slipped. Two common problems with Yashica SLRs. Having fixed these problems many times in the past on other Yashica (and Contax) models, I had no hesitation to attempt repairing the camera albeit knowing there would be some differences. The main difference, of course, is the additional modules and circuitry for the focus assist. This has caused the flexible circuit board to be enlarged and increased in complexity which makes removal, required to enable the camera to be dismantled, somewhat more complex and time consuming. Overall I spent nearly two days repairing and servicing the camera. The camera now works as intended and has also had a full service carried out.

The leatherette covers on the camera were perished as usually happens. Strangely, the cover around the grip is rubber and was in perfect order. I've replaced the other covers with some I had and have fitted a rubber thumb grip to the back which I think compliments the front grip quite well.

The focus-assist works well in good light with a contrasty subject. But it becomes less reliable as brightness and contrast reduces. There are no other focus aids in the viewfinder so you either rely on the focus assist or use the matt area of the screen to focus.

The FX-A is now a collectors item. I don't see this as a users camera. It's quirky and interesting to use (once) but will then sit on the shelf I'm sure. I'm not really a collector so if anyone is interested in becoming the owner of this FX-A, make me an offer. It will have to be a good one though.

I've attached a selection of photos taken during the repair for anyone interested in the internals.












Wednesday, 1 July 2026

Monday, 23 March 2026

Is your mirror staying up?

 I've seen a few discussions about this recently and the suggested reasons and solutions show a lack of understanding of general principles. So here's a few reasons of why a mirror may stay up.

1. Mirror is stuck to the mirror foam.

This is a myth, often repeated but, I imagine, never actually seen. I've never seen it in the hundreds of cameras I've repaired. Even ones with very sticky foam, I've never seen a mirror actually stuck to it. Let's move on.

2. Mirror hits the back of the lens.

If the mirror slips down in the mirror carrier such that the bottom of the mirror overhangs the carrier, it 'might' hit the back of the lens. It depends on how much the mirror has slipped and how far the lens protrudes into the camera. It may happen with some lenses and not with others. It may happen with some lenses only if they are focussed on, or near, infinity as the lens moves further away form the mirror as it is focused closer.

There are two possible scenarios if the mirror hits the back of the lens depending on how high the mirror gets before getting stuck. 

a) If the mirror rises sufficiantly for the shutter to fire, the shutter will open and close normally but the mirror will not fall after the shutter closes. The camera can be cocked again but the mirror will remain up.

b) If the mirror rises insufficiently for the shutter to fire, the shutter will remain cocked and no exposure made. The camera will become locked.

In both cases, the camera works normally if no lens is fitted.

3. Shutter fails to close.

The closing of the shutter triggers the release of the mirror. If the shutter fails to fully close, the return of the mirror doesn't get triggered and it stays up. The camera, usually, can be cocked again and the mirror will typically return back to the down position.

Depending on the camera and the type of shutter, sometimes the shutter can be pushed to make it close fully and the mirror will then fall. Try this at your own risk.